When making repairs in our apartment or country house, we rarely think about our safety just because at first glance everything looks pretty decent. But over the past year, for example, you bought a hob, microwave or installed air conditioning in the rooms, a washing machine or a dishwasher - also a good consumer of electricity. Can the wiring or electronic protection devices withstand all this load? Let's count.
We will start dancing as always from the stove, more precisely, from the electricity meter. Four wires come up to him. The first and third are the entrance. We do not need them. The fourth is "0". He is direct. The second wire is phase. It goes to circuit breakers, or more simply - to machines. There may be several machines. It all depends on the layout and initial load of the power grid. If you have an electric stove - one powerful automatic machine goes exactly to the stove. Next - one to the kitchen, toilet and bathroom. Another - to the living room and bedroom.
At par, machines can be 16; twenty; 25; 32 amperes. Which machine to choose? It all depends on the load connected to the mains. Each kilowatt gives 5 amperes of current. The power of any device can be read on the tag or in the equipment passport. For example, an electric kettle - power from 1.8 kW to 2.2 kW. We get the current - from 9 A to 11 A. We add a refrigerator, light and, for example, a toaster. At 16 Amperes, if we fit in, then end-to-end. It is better to choose 25 A. If, according to your calculations, the load exceeds 30 A, then it is advisable to divide it into two machines. Accordingly, an additional branch of electrical wiring is required.
Which wire to choose? Usually in the old Soviet times there was aluminum wiring - two conductors of 2.5 mm square. Which corresponds to a maximum of only 3.5 kW of power or 16 A current. Today, such power is not enough for anyone. Since one hob with all included circles from 8-12kW. Here are some recommended options for wiring.
Copper wire:
- 2x2.5 mm square. - current 21 A, power - 4.6 kW, automatic - 20 A;
- 2x4.0 mm sq. - current 27 A, power - 5.9 kW, automatic - 25 A.
Aluminum wire:
- 2x2.5 mm square. - current 16 A, power - 3.5 kW, automatic machine - 16 A;
- 2x4.0 mm sq. - current 21 A, power - 4.6 kW, automatic - 20 A.
The current of the machine should be slightly less than the maximum allowable wiring current. This will protect the wiring from overload and possible fire. Although there will be no wiring fire with current technologies, it will require additional wall repairs where the wiring is damaged. The wire connections must be uniform: copper with copper, aluminum with aluminum. Use terminal blocks to connect different wires. But it’s better not to.
Having assessed the possibilities of our wiring and the needs of the equipment, we draw the appropriate conclusions. When buying a wiring, do not take cheap, even if it does not look different from the one that is more expensive - remember that this is your home and safety. It is better if the insulation is double. Junction boxes must be freely accessible in case of unforeseen repairs or changes in wiring diagrams. But ideally, there should not be any junction boxes at all, as well as electrical connections. For this, a separate wire is laid for each point.
It is advisable to take a three-wire wire (3x1.5) to connect the light. This will allow the use of a double or triple switch to connect the chandelier. Electrical wiring and plumbing, like all communications, is best done at the very beginning of apartment renovation.
And a couple more tips. If you decide to make any changes in the wiring - contact a professional electrician, and do not "self-medicate". Such repair options can end in failure. Choosing an electrician for the planned work on wiring or connecting devices, consult with friends or your neighbors who already have this stage behind. Good advice and a familiar electrician will never hurt. Good luck with your repair!
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